1. Guanciale is dry-cured pork cheek or jowl; smoked versions are also available. Bacon can be used instead. Cut the guanciale into cubes.

2. Place in a dry frying pan and cook over low heat until the fat renders and the pieces become crisp.

3. Meanwhile, add 1–2 teaspoons of salt and the spaghetti to several litres of hot water. Cook according to the packet instructions.

4. Once the guanciale is fried, remove it to a plate.

5. Put the yolks in a large bowl and add half the grated pecorino. Mix well. Take a ladleful of hot spaghetti cooking water and pour it into the yolks in a thin stream, stirring continuously.

6. Add a little ground black pepper. Gradually pour in the hot rendered guanciale fat in a thin stream.

7. Drain the cooked spaghetti, add to the bowl of yolks and mix thoroughly.

8. Serve each portion topped with the crisp guanciale pieces, ground black pepper and grated pecorino.